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When Berkeley’s century-old Hotel Shattuck Plaza reopened a decade ago after a mammoth renovation under new ownership, it unveiled Five, a swanky modern American bistro, too. This fall, Zino moved into those digs, unveiling a new Mediterranean-centric menu of mezzes and tagines and at least a partial decor re-do. Here’s what it’s like inside.
THE VIBE: Much of the atmosphere here is unchanged from its previous incarnation. Wander through the stylish black-and-white bar, which looks almost exactly as it did, to reach the dining room, which sports teal, gold and burgundy accents now. Sunlight still streams through the familiar arched windows during the day, and chandeliers and globe lights illuminate the rooms after dusk. And the sound of revelers and a televised sports match echoes from the marble-floored bar and lobby into the dining room, a reminder that this is, after all, a hotel restaurant and lounge.
THE FOOD: Executive chef Brandon Hicks (from New York’s Picholine, Ilili and Brasserie 8½) has designed a seasonal Mediterranean menu inspired, he says, by the cuisines of 22 different countries. This fall, for example, Spanish gastronomy gets a nod on the mezzes menu with grilled octopus and Spanish chorizo ($16), while Italy is represented by Pugliese pork meatballs ($12).
Middle Eastern and North African-inspired dishes, such as the flavorful, savory Persian braised lamb shank entree ($27), with apricots, pearl onions and piquillo peppers, and the tender chicken tagine ($24), particularly shine here.
This may be billed as a Mediterranean place, but a hotel restaurant has to appeal to a broad demographic, so you’ll also find burgers ($17) — topped with Greek feta and arugula — here, as well as other crowd pleasers, including steak, pasta and vegetarian possibilities. And the craft cocktail menu ($12-$13) offers a dozen options, from a cognac-sherry Mouthful of Gold to The Opposite Shore, a gin, pamplemousse, sumac and za’atar concoction.
DON’T MISS: Zino’s dips, which are served with warm, freshly baked pita, are sensational. Order them singly ($7-$8), by the trio ($18) or five ($29), so you can sample them all. Among the offerings: a mint-flecked tzatziki (personal fave), citrusy hummus, roasted pepper-pomegranate muhammara, a very spicy feta dip and classic baba ghanouj.
PERFECT FOR … Theater-goers grabbing a bite before the show. A trio of those dips and a couple of cocktails make a lovely, light pre-theater dinner for two. (Be sure to share your curtain time with your server when you order.)
THE DETAILS: Open for breakfast and lunch weekdays, dinner nightly and weekend brunch at 2086 Allston Way, Berkeley; www.zinoberkeley.com.