Fans of Nyum Bai’s bold and flavorful Cambodian street food will be delighted to learn that the young chef and owner, Nite Yun, has turned her acclaimed noodle pop-up into a brick-and-mortar restaurant with the help of San Francisco’s La Cocina.
Nyum Bai is bright and colorful — and in excellent company. It’s across the street from fellow La Cocina incubator business (and James Beard award nominee for best chef in the west) Reem’s California, in Oakland’s up-and-coming Fruitvale Transit Village. We stopped by on opening weekend to fulfill a wicked noodle craving and check out the new digs.
The vibe: 1960’s C-pop. The small restaurant — five tables, 10 bar stools — is done up in pink, blue and green pastels and celebrates the Cambodia that Yun’s parents grew up in, before the Khmer Rouge takeover. This golden era was known for its pop and rock stars, so the walls are decked out with vintage Cambodian album covers. And the pink bathroom wallpaper features the faces of famous mid-century Cambodian pop stars interspersed with Oakland landmarks, like the Tribune Tower. Nice touch.
The food: Totally original and made with locally-grown, organic ingredients whenever possible. Drinking Snacks ($8.95-$11.95), Small Plates ($10-$15.95) and Big Plates ($11 -$15.95) are all great for sharing, especially the Prahok Ktiss ($11.95), stir-fried minced pork slowly simmered in coconut milk and prahok, a fermented fish paste, and kroeung, a spicy paste similar to Thai curry paste.
Sach Ko Ang ($11.95), or grilled beef skewers, are marinated in honey and fish sauce, yielding a fabulous spicy-sweet-pungent taste. Want a salad? Go for Ngoum Banana Salad ($10), an elegant mix of shredded banana blossoms, red cabbage, mint, sweet basil and cucumbers in a sweet lime dressing. Add shrimp ($2.95) and it’s a meal.
Perfect for…a flavorful weekday lunch to spice things up; or dinner with friends before heading to Ale Industries, a warehouse brewery and taproom on East 10th Street.
Details: Open for lunch and dinner daily except Tuesdays at 3340 E. 12 St., Suite 11, Oakland; www.nyumbai.com