Clearly, there is some spiritual connection between Berkeley and Quebec. Berkeley became host to the first U.S. outlet of Canadian chain Smoke’s Poutinerie several years ago. Now owner Alexei “Lex” Gopnik-Lewinski has brought Montreal smoke meat to the East Bay with Augie’s.
The story goes that Lex, a native Canadian who has lived in the Bay Area for some 30 years, was always bringing back Montreal smoke meat — cured beef brisket rubbed with spices and smoked — every time he traveled to Canada. An overzealous TSA inspector seized his quarry during one trip, and from Lex’s frustration at losing all that delicious meat, Augie’s (named for Lex’s oldest son) was born.
The vibe: Located on the west side of Berkeley, just off Seventh Street, Augie’s has a butcher-shop feel, with white tile and a small deli case up front for those who want to buy smoke meat or turkey by the pound. TVs over the counter will probably be tuned to hockey, if there’s any on. (You could ask for the Warriors game, but they might give you the Canadian stink-eye if you do.) You’ll probably run into Lex himself, cruising from table to table and asking how things are. On our visit, we talked about how well poutine goes with … several alcoholic beverages, and he said that Augie’s is awaiting its licensing to begin selling beer and wine soon. Order up front when you walk in, then grab a table and wait for them to bring your grub.
The food: Smoke meat is what they say it is: deeply flavored like pastrami, and crumbly like corned beef. It’s even got a fair amount of that juiciness that Texas brisket is so famous for (although the smoked turkey was a bit drier). The menu is simplicity itself: Choose either smoked meat or turkey, and choose how you want it. L’Original ($14.25) is 8 ounces of smoked meat on rye bread; bigger appetites can get the 12-ounce L’Montroyal ($19.25) if they choose. You can also get your smoked meat on a salad ($12.50) or directly atop an order of poutine ($11).
About that poutine: It’s pretty great. Triple-fried red potatoes have the textural fortitude to resist sogginess in the face of a generous helping of hot St. Hubert gravy, and the “squeaky” cheese curds from Oakdale have a satisfying chewiness when you bite into them. (Classic poutine is $8; vegetarians can get it with meat-free gravy.)
Perfect for … A bite to eat so you’re not shopping hungry at the nearby Berkeley Bowl West; a snack before or after fighting the traffic around a Bears game during football season; or a solo dive into a heaping bowl of poutine after you’ve visited one of Berkeley’s cannabis dispensaries.
Details: Open 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday and 4:30-10:30 p.m. Wednesday-Friday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Saturdays and 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays at 875 Potter St., Berkeley; www.augiesmontrealdeli.com.