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After three years of running their popular Filipino pop-up in San Francisco, Janice and Brandi Dulce opened their first brick and mortar in Oakland last fall. The warm and welcoming FOB Kitchen took over the Temescal spot formerly occupied by Juhu Beach Club, and it’s been a packed, lumpia-and-tropical-cocktail party ever since.
We scored a table during a busy brunch service, but this no-reservations restaurant is equally adept at dinner, when chef Janice and crew bust out thrice-cooked Duroc pork belly, roasted whole branzino and epic calamansi granita. Here’s what we experienced:
THE VIBE: It’s fun and crowded, with loud funk, soul and hip-hop music flowing through the narrow dining room and enough greenery to make you feel like you stumbled upon an island find. Bright blue and turquoise tiles, maps of the Philippines and palm frond-painted walls set the mood for those tasty cocktails, including the rummy, chai-laced Juhu Beach Club ($13). Respect.
THE FOOD: Janice serves up solid Filipino dishes with modern flair. Many of our must-try recommendations are available during brunch and dinner, including that legendary pork belly, Lechon Kawali ($10/$15), served with palate-perking pickled red onion and Thai chili sauce, and crunchy Shanghai Lumpia ($10) made with tender bits of pork and carrot, water chestnuts and sweet chili sauce.
For brunch, you’ll need at least one order of savory House Spam ($15) served atop garlic rice with a gooey, sunny-side-up egg and fresh mixed greens. Yes, the menu features a lot of pork. But FOB Kitchen also offers several thoughtful vegetarian dishes, including Kabocha Squash with long beans and coconut milk ($8), Tofu & Shroom Adobo made with Hodo tofu ($14) and Pancit Sotanghon ($10), a garlicky glass-noodle dish loaded with carrots, red cabbage and green beans.
DON’T MISS: The tropics-inspired drinks, from the fruity, spirit-free Mango & Coconut ($7) to the Fresh off the Boat, made with rum, coconut, lime, pandan and red bean ($13).
DETAILS: No reservations. Check FOB Kitchen’s Yelp page for wait times. Open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Friday and weekend brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. at 5179 Telegraph Ave., Oakland; www.fobkitchen.com.